|
The Straits of
Bonifacio - Where Yachties go to play
By Trevor Joyce
Between the southern cape of French Corsica and the Northern
tip of Italian Sardinia lay the straits of Bonifacio, a 12 mile extension of
the Tyrrhenian Sea dotted with the islands and rocks of the Maddalena and
Lavezzi National Parks. Fanned by the famous westerly mistral the straits will
be the stage in September 2010 for three sailing events; the Rolex World Maxi
Championships, the Rolex Swan Cup and the RPAYC Bonifacio Yacht Rally. The
first two events are world famous and are conducted by the Yacht Club Costa
Smerelda in Porto Cervo. The third event will be conducted for the Royal Prince
Alfred Yacht Club by Mariner Boating Holidays from Sydney!
 The so called Costa Smerelda (Emerald Coast) is a 10
kilometre slice of the north coast of Sardinia, which was given international
prominence forty years ago when the Aga Khan converted an impoverished rural
backwater into a play ground for the rich and famous, with the Yacht Club Costa
Smerelda providing the heart beat of what was and is an extraordinary
development. So what's the big attraction for the doyens of the sailing world
in this neck of the woods? Firstly the area is geographically compact, the
coastline is heavily indented and the islands offer an abundance of safe
anchorages. Most of the islands in the straits are within Sardinia's Maddalena
National Park, and laid moorings in many locations eliminate the need for
dreaded and damaging anchors.
The Bonifacio Yacht Rally will see a fleet of chartered
yachts start a two week cruise from Cannigione, near Porto Cervo. First stop
will be the busy port of Maddalena on the island of the same name and
headquarters of the Italian navy for whose officers the social circuit seems
more important than the naval defence of Italy. The nearby islands of the
Maddalena National Park are a mere hop and a step from the port. Alternatively
the maxi yachts competing in the Rolex world championships will be in action in
the vicinity of nearby Porto Cervo. 
After the first two days of winding down to the Italian pace
of things it will be time to stir the competitive juices during the first race
to Longonsardo, about 10 miles to the west and near Capo Testa, the northern
most point of Sardinia. Longonsardo is the port for Santa Teresa di Galura,
which for defensive reasons was located on the high ground overlooking the
Straits of Bonifacio. There are some wonderful bays in this area where wind
weathered granite boulders stand sentinel over calm, clean and crystal clear
anchorages.
Then it will be race two across the 10 miles of the straits
and the prevailing westerly mistral to Bonifacio, which in all my travels
stands alone as the most spectacular sea port any where in the world. From a distance
the narrow fissure in the 100 metre limestone cliff that is the entrance to the
harbour is difficult to see but the red-roofed houses that cling precariously
to the top of the precipice are conspicuous from a long way off. Behind the
town the often snow-capped Corsican mountains climb away into the soft blue
haze; breath taking stuff.
Once inside you will really start to mix it with the "big
boys" and it would not surprise if you were to share the tiny harbour with a
Bill Gaits motorized monster. The rally will have pre-arranged berthing in
front of the Albatross Restaurant where you will have to walk the full length
of the quay, (say 50 meters) to the post race dinner, with affable Eric as your
host.
By quite a margin Bonifacio is the jewel of Corsica and the
lay day will be busily spent exploring the town's turbulent history and
snapping up fashion bargains in the numerous shops in the old town. End of
summer fashion in France apparently means new season gems in springtime
Australia. There is also a walk to the Pertusato lighthouse along the windswept
cliff tops that you should do in the early morning, so as not to reduce your
shopping time!
After savouring more Corsican delights in the Lavezzi Island
group, also a National Park, it will be off in the next race to Porto Vecchio
on the east coast of Corsica. The old town also sits precariously on the high
ground behind the port, which means great views but also dangerously increased
pulse and respiration rates after the climb up to the old city gate, (you can
catch a small road train if you want). Although a busy town in the tourist
season the restaurants, bars, coffee shops and boutiques are tastefully done
and the people are warm and hospitable. 
The post race dinner in Porto Vecchio will be held at La
Bistro - virtually quayside and there has always been a local band to liven
things up a little. In recent years a modern day Mona Lisa, Christina has
graced the stage with her presence and enchanted us with her French language
versions of some timeless jazz standards.
On the lay day we suggest a drive into the mountains of
Southern Corsica, which rise to nearly 2,000 meters above sea level in a 40
minute drive. Follow your nose to Zonza for lunch (I recommend the lamb shanks
with ‘erbs and sauce) and then take the perilous descent after the summit to
Solenzara before following the coast back to Porto Vecchio.
Race four will see the fleet return to Italy and Sardinia
after a mid day rendezvous in Rondinara, circular as the name suggests, land
locked and with a perfect white sand beach. Porto Massimo, at the finish is on
the northern side of Maddalena Island and the marina there is owned by the
single resort, which has been designed in complete harmony with its
surroundings. Not a white building to be seen anywhere! The restaurant, La
Scaglieri, venue for the post race function would actually be in the water if
it was not for a few rocks along the front offers seafood with equal.
The following lay day will probably see you in Cala Coticcio
on the eastern side of nearby Caprera. Known by the locals as "Little Tahiti"
because of the electric blue of the water over the blinding white sand, this
bay will also see the start of race 5 down to the Yacht Club Porto Rotondo,
which will again take us through the course area for the Rolex Swan World Cup.
With 130 starters you would not want to run the numbers on the value of the
fleet, all the gear on board and the cost of a campaign in Sardinia; there
probably aren't enough zeros on a calculator!
 After Porto Rotondo you may care to meander around the
corner to the island of Tavolara, a huge monolith that sits alone in the sea
with just one anchorage at the southern end.
At La Tonini's restaurant you will again experience Italian cuisine at
its very best and in all probability an encounter with a clutch of holidaying
Italian families, graded from one end of the table to the other; men, women,
large children, small children. "Why to mix it family. Is better boys they talk
to boys, womans with womans and keeds next to womans", one of the guys said to
me. Sounds a bit like an Ozzie BBQ?
Thus without real intent the RPAYC contingent will become
part of sailing's crème de la crème during a magnificent autumn under canvass
in the Straits of Bonifacio, although it is doubtful that anyone on board a
super yacht, a maxi or a Swan will have peered at the modest fleet through
binoculars and remarked, "sono gli Australiani dal Bonifacio Yacht Rally", but
then who cares.
More information about the 2010 Bonifacio Yacht Rally is
available from Mariner Boating Holidays in Sydney telephone 02 99 66 1244, soon
on the website www.marinerboating.com.au
or email
This e-mail address is being protected from spambots. You need JavaScript enabled to view it
.
Back to RPAYC Bonifacio Rally page
|
